![]() ![]() a fire alarm breaker might be locked "on"). Breakers have a feature called "Trip-Free": they will trip even if the handle is held in the "on" position. What's the deal with handle-ties? Fairly simple. Watch it and I think your eyes will be opened. This video teases Europeans but it gets the point across very well. To understand what the 1-pole and 2-pole thing is all about, you need to understand the North American approach to 120V and 240V power. I bought a bunch by accident, and there's no application for them except small travel trailers (TT30 outlets). Many will appear to fit, but will actually arc and destroy the bus.ģ0A/120V breakers are practically useless. You must use breakers that are specifically listed for your breaker panel. ![]() It's true that single-pole breakers over 30A basically don't exist, but that's because delivering thousands of watts of power is more efficient at 240V (voltage drop is less of a factor), not because it's not possible.įinally, "Home Depot" is not a breaker type. You can have two-pole 15A breakers, two-pole 200A breakers (or more), and many increments in between. This is purely due to voltage, and has nothing to do with current. It should be easier (and maybe cheaper) to just get the two-pole unit (instead of two singles plus a handle tie). The dryer is a mixed 240V/120V load and requires common trip which is only available from a two-pole unit. There are some cases (mostly multi-wire branch circuits) where it is/was legal to handle-tie two adjacent single-pole breakers, but that's not relevant here. You'd also run the risk of overloading neutral. Your dryer motor and light might work, but the heating element will do nothing. Single-space "tandem" breakers won't do because both halves will be on the same leg of your service, giving 0V difference between the two load terminals. To provide a 240V circuit, you must have a two-space, two-pole breaker.Ī single-pole breaker obviously can supply only 120V loads, as it has only one terminal. ![]()
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